Tim Hartmann, Ph.D., Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service statewide fruit specialist and assistant professor, Department of Horticultural Sciences, December through February is the best time to plant most fruit trees in Texas. Plant in early winter to help trees grow a solid root system before they break dormancy in the spring.
“The idea is to plant fruit trees as early as possible to give their roots time to grow during those mild winter days,” Hartmann said. “That strong root establishment sets the foundation, and it pays off when the heat and drought of summer conditions set in.”
An exception is subtropical fruit trees. Wait until the threat of frost has passed before planting subtropical species like citrus, olives and pineapple guava.
Choosing the right tree for your area is the first important step.
The Aggie horticulture fruit and nut resources page has region-specific information about climate requirements and bestperforming fruit varieties for where you live.
Once the right variety is identified, visit a reputable tree nursery to find a medium-sized tree, between 3-5 feet tall. Trees at this size tend to establish better and are easier to train than larger trees.
Planting bare-root trees is preferable, but container trees also work well. In either case, choose a tree that looks healthy, with no damage or signs of stress.
Once you’ve chosen the right tree, find a location with plenty of sunshine and good drainage.
Low spots or poor draining soil can cause problems for fruit trees. In lower areas, use mounded soil to elevate tree roots above the threat of standing water.
“You want well-drained soil and a spot that doesn’t stay soggy,” Hartmann said. “That can drown the tree.”
Sunshine is also vital for good fruit production and quality. Most fruit trees perform best in full sun, though some varieties benefit from afternoon shade.
After picking the right spot, dig a hole just large enough to fit the root system. Plant the tree at a depth where its root collar — the distinct line where the stem meets the root ball — is level with the soil surface.
For container trees: Remove as much potting mix from around the roots as possible.
Gently loosen the roots so they can grow outward.
Trim any roots that have become encircled around the root ball. Doing so prevents major issues in the future.
After placing a tree in the hole, refill it with the original soil. Water the tree well to settle the soil around the roots.
Do a hard cutback, or heavy pruning, after planting a fruit tree. Doing so allows the tree to focus its energy on root development. Hard cutbacks also create stronger scaffold limbs that will support fruit later.
“By cutting back, you’re restoring a root-to-shoot balance that induces root growth that then supports a lot of new shoots when the tree starts actively growing,” Hartmann said.
Once planted, create a weed- and grass-free zone — 4-5 feet in diameter. This reduces competition for water and nutrients critical for the tree’s development, health and fruit production. It’s ideal to expand the weed-free zone as the tree grows.
Kill or manually remove weeds in that zone. Applying mulch can also help reduce weed growth but avoid piling the mulch against the tree’s trunk.
After transplanting a tree, cutting it back and controlling weeds, it’s essential to leave the tree alone until spring growth begins.
“Improper planting and overwatering are two of the most common causes of tree death,” Hartmann said. “Additional watering is not usually needed until there are a lot of leaves and spring rainfall has tapered off. Once you’ve followed these steps, it’s best to just let the tree do its thing.”