A Rose by Any Other Name
Most of my articles are agriculture based, but I am trying to branch out a little. So, this week’s topic is about something you don’t eat or feed to livestock.
I am certainly no rose expert, but my mom was, and I can research information.
Roses are heavy users of nutrients and require frequent application of fertilizers. Do not apply fertilizers until the first set of flowers begins to fade for ever-blooming types, or in the case of once-blooming roses, 8 to 10 weeks after planting.
A heaping tablespoon per plant of a complete fertilizer, such as 6-10-4 or 8-8-8, may be applied every 4 to 6 weeks until about September 1. Application after that time can promote soft fall growth that may result in freeze damage. The timehonored and probably the best fertilizer for roses is well-cured cow manure. Since manure may not be readily available, commercial fertilizers have become popular. Did I mention manure is the best nutrient?
Phosphorus is the material that helps the plant develop strong, healthy roots and provides for prolific flowering.
Nitrogen is easily and quickly depleted from the soil and will need to be applied periodically during the growing season. It is necessary for growing bigger canes, stems, and leaves. Slowrelease commercial fertilizer or natural materials, such as cottonseed meal and manure, last longer and require fewer applications through the growing season. When fertilizing any plants, water is of course very important. Water your roses after fertilizer application so that the fertilizers can dissolve and be utilized by the plants.
Though there are many, probably one of the more difficult rose calamities is blackspot. Blackspot is a fungal leafspot disease that loves humid, cool, wet conditions that we occasionally see in the spring. The very best control is to do your research and buy roses that are proven to be at least somewhat resistant to Black Spot. If you already have favorite roses growing that have black spot issues, avoid overhead watering, prune the plants to help with airflow, and remove/ dispose of infected leaves on the plant and those on the ground as they will harbor the fungi. Finally, you can apply fungicide to treat the disease, but this will require repeat treatment throughout the growing season.
Pruning roses is an important practice, but there is a trick to it. You can periodically prune back those rambling shoots that grow faster than the rest of the plant.
This kind of pruning promotes branching and more flower production. You can also try to keep the spent blooms cut off to prevent seed production, which wastes plant energy that could be used for flower production. Here is the trick- it is called the “5 Leaflet Rule.”
Go down the shoot to the sets of five leaflet leaves when deadheading and trim at a 45-degree angle above this leaf. This should promote new growth, especially in repeat-blooming roses. I do not know if this is a hard and fast rule, but some little ladies swear by it.
Finally, and I think most importantly if you are planting new roses is to select rose varieties that are suitable for our sometimes-harsh environment. Earth-Kind roses: https:// aggie- horticulture. tamu. edu/earthkindroses/, developed by Texas A&M AgriLife Extension, are known for their ability to withstand extreme conditions with minimal care.
Knockout roses and Drift roses are also wellsuited for Texas landscapes due to their resilience and continuous blooming cycles. They are also old favorites that may have been in a cemetery or yard for years and bloom every year with little maintenance.
Roses are a beautiful addition to any yard or landscape and with proper selection and limited maintenance they can be a hardy long-lasting heirloom in your yard.
The inspiring quote by our friend William, “A rose by any other name is still a rose” really has nothing to do with this article, but I like it and do not know when I would ever have a better opportunity to use it.