Erath Extension Agent Lonnie Jenschke
Proper Tree Planting for More Fruitful Results Larry Stein, Ph.D., professor and Regents Fellow in the Texas A&M Department of Horticultural Sciences and AgriLife Extension fruit specialist, Uvalde, said now is the time to plant, and homeowners should choose the right tree and take the correct steps to establish and care for their fruit trees in the first critical years.
Winter is the time to plant most fruit trees When it comes to fruit trees, Stein said to plant in late December through February. The key is that trees be totally dormant at the time of planting.
Planting trees in early winter helps them establish some root growth before they break dormancy in the spring, Stein said. That initial root growth can make a big difference during harsh summer conditions.
Stein said while the late December through February time frame for planting works for peaches, pears, figs and other fruit trees, he does not recommend it for planting citrus trees due to the danger of freezing. For those, he recommends planting in March or April — when the chance of frost has likely passed.
Stein suggests referring to the Aggie horticulture fruit site when choosing varieties for planting. The site contains comprehensive fact sheets on different trees and gives fruit tree variety recommendations based on location.
Where to plant fruit trees Poor draining soil can cause problems for fruit trees, Stein said. Low spots or areas that stay saturated are poor transplant locations.
Stein also recommends placing the tree on the north side of the property so it stays cold during dormancy and remains dormant longer.
“Plant fruit trees in an area where they will avoid lateday sun, which can contribute to earlier bud breaks,” he said. “You want the tree to stay dormant as long as possible to avoid tree or fruit damage from any potential late-spring freezes.”
How to plant fruit trees Before planting, knock off the soil around the tree’s roots, which, in container trees, typically includes peat moss and perlite or a light mix. Bare-root trees will not have any soil around the roots.
Dig a hole the size of the root system, typically 12-18 inches across, Stein said. Dig it deep enough to plant the tree so that its root collar — the distinct line where the stem meets the root ball — is level with the ground.
Fill in the hole with the original soil, Stein said. Water the tree well to settle the soil around the roots, and then cut the tree back hard.
Fertilize, fertilize, fertilize In May, after the tree shows 8-10 inches of growth, fertilize it with a cup of ammonium sulfate with 21% nitrogen. Organic 3% fertilizer can be used but apply 7 cups to reach the 21% nitrogen requirement.
Water in the fertilizer 12-18 inches from the trunk of the tree, he said.
“The soil berm and weedfree zone can be useful to let you know where to spread the fertilizer,” he said. “You might want to put the fertilizer outside the berm to ensure it’s not too close to the trunk.”
“Follow this regimen, and you will be amazed at the tree you can grow in three years,” he said.
Provide a half pound of 21% fertilizer per inch of trunk diameter at bud break in subsequent years for the life of the tree, Stein said. Give the tree another halfpound of fertilizer in May if it shows a fruit crop. Do not apply the second round of fertilizer if the tree is not showing fruit.
“Those are the recommendations for the life of the tree,” he said. “There are variety-specific training and pruning regimens we recommend in the fact sheets, and you’ll need to be aware of potential seasonal disease and pest issues, but that is a good start to successfully establishing fruit trees in Texas.”